Saturday, June 30, 2007

As you enter the Erie there are 5 locks close together called the Waterford Flight and they raise you 150 feet. Since the dock at Waterford was not available we tied up at a concrete service wall just after lock #3 which is actually the second lock of the flight (there is no #1). It was only 1:30 so with the Dohrers we walked to the visitor’s center to check out the steam boats and tugs. As we walked past the lock tender’s station she was about to lock-up a boat so we decided to watch. When the friendly tender saw us she asked Polly if she wanted to operate the controls so Polly and Kathy shared the duty and operated the lock to lift the boat. Nothing like getting a little OJT toward a third career. The walk turned into a re-supply shopping opportunity and then back to the boat. Since we had left, more boats had found the wall so there will be 7-8 boats for the night. After burgers on the grill we had a web cam visit with Libby and Kate to get an update on the latest happenings at summer “day camp school” and other things going on at home

A pretty steamboat.


Turn left at the sign.


June 29 – Friday
Next stop – the Erie Canal, but not before fueling up and emptying out the boat’s tanks (fuel & holding). Today we wore jeans, long sleeves and at times wind breakers thanks to the front that changed our weather to cool CAVU++. It was only 20 miles to Waterford where we would enter the Erie and turn west but first we had to go through the Federal lock on the Hudson River at Troy, NY. When the lock opened to discharge the boats that had locked down, out came 5 or 6 steam powered launches. These were restored small boats that were in the area for a steam boat festival being held in Waterford. That was good news but the bad news was that we would not be able to tie up at the nice waterfront in Waterford.

Polly holding Flight to the wall in lock.


Cocktails aboard Renaissance.


The storms never materialized and the frontal passage was a rather calm event for us. That was good because it allowed us to have a very pleasant evening as dinner guests aboard Renaissance. Following wine and cheese on their bridge we sat down to Kathy’s delicious fish tacos made from fresh-caught Mahi Mahi (dolphin fish) they had gotten in the Carolinas from a man cleaning fish on the dock. I think Gregg said it cost him a cold beer – he seems to buy a lot of stuff with “cold beer”.

Huck camping for the night.


Huck Finn on the Hudson?


June 28 – Thursday
We decided to stay put today since the actual front has not passed and thunderstorms are forecast through today and tonight, with the frontal passage. As I was having my early coffee on the bridge, a fellow from another dock called to me asking for quarters to use in the clothes dryer. In the course of that exchange I met Joe Gordon who is a former tug boat crewman, U.S.C.G. licensed captain and current NYC police officer with the harbor unit. He and buddy Chris, NYPD undercover narc cop (complete with Blue Shield and looking like he could have been in any episode of “NYPD Blue”), are on vacation going up the river as far as they can get this week. Their vessel is a 15’ West Wight Potter – a nifty and durable looking little sail boat complete with a 2 HP Honda outboard. They came into the marina last evening after the storm and slept. They needed to use the dryer to get some clothing fit to wear for the day. They set sail about 9:00 AM for points up river. Joe gave me an NYPD T-shirt and his card along with an invite to call him on our way back for a tour of his area – he lives on Staten Island.

Joe Gordon heading up the Hudson


Thursday, June 28, 2007

June 27 – Wednesday
7:30 departure bound for New Baltimore. Hot and humid, again but a favorable current gave us 8 kts. At 1400-1600 RPM which minimizes fuel burn a bit lower than our normal 3 gallons per hour. This section of the Hudson is narrower with lots of islands and pleasant properties and towns to view. We saw several eagles and a variety of other water birds. Fish jumped frequently and one was very slender and maybe 2’ long which I later learned was a sturgeon.
We decided to go to a marina again and wait out the approaching cold front with it’s accompanying thunderstorms. We found a very good marina this time – Shady Harbor, where we arrived at 12:00 noon. Great facility with nice ship’s store, pool and restaurant. First order of business was 2 ice cream sandwiches then Polly did some laundry and we basically just hung-out waiting for the storms to get here. They did, about 6:00 which meant the steaks planned for supper had to be pan sautéed (with garlic and mushrooms), not BBQ grilled. Just as the storm began and cooking had just been started we noticed that the boat seemed to be swinging as it does when anchored and winds come up. We were tied to a dock so should not have been seeing a moving panorama pass by the cabin window – the bow line had come loose. Fire drill time! The bow of the boat had swung about 45 degrees away from the dock but we were being held by the stern and spring lines so I (RCB) jumped ashore to secure a longer line to the dock while Polly made it fast to the boat and after getting back aboard, we used the bow thruster to push the bow toward the dock as we also took in the new longer line. OK – back to the steaks.
The steaks called for a couple glasses of our best red box wine and after dinner we hooked up the TV for a little channel surfing before lights out.

Hudson Athens Lighthouse - 1874 Architectural gem.


Looking towards the Hudson River from Hide Away Marina.


West Point


June 26 – Tuesday
Departed the anchorage about 7:30 bound for Kingston, NY and some marina that would allow a walk-about and a good cleaning of the boat to remove the salt coating we picked up along the Jersey coast. The weather was HHH but as we approached West Point the sun shone thru the haze to give the view of the U.S. Military Academy and the bluffs below it a faint glow. Except for the heat the passage was uneventful and we entered Rondout creek at 2:00PM just like the GPS kept telling us all morning long. Based on info in the cruising guide and also a web site we had checked out, “Hide Away” Marina seemed like a good choice based on it’s location and description of services so we had phoned ahead for reservations. When we hailed, John the owner / manager advised us to continue up this abandoned canal to the end and he would be there to assist with docking. He was, and when I spotted him and the facilities I swear I could hear the theme music from the movie Deliverance. It was too bad that “Hide Away” marina wasn’t better hidden from us when we were making the choice. Contrary to the guide, he only dealt in cash or reluctantly, checks. After we got FLIGHT squared away I went to the office to check in and found John planted in an old barber chair under an awning in front of the building with a big fan blowing across his ample plus torso. The charge was $54. including electric & water. When I learned it was cash only, I found a fifty, ten, and 3 ones in my wallet and told John I would need change. It worked to my advantage that he was too lazy to get off his fat ass for the change and settled for $53. The handing over of the $$$ was all that was involved in the registration process – no name, address, boat name or CG registration number required. Just $54. or as close as you could get. And oh yes, no key or combination needed for the bath house either, since the lock broke a “while back”. All in all it worked for us but our friends on Renaissance had a problem with their electrical service (it blew the breaker when they turned on their A\C unit) and the water (there wasn’t any connected to the faucet at their dock so 250+ feet of hose would be needed). They abandoned “Hide Away” for the spiffy municipal dock we had passed on the way in – no problems there but not quite as colorful.
We walked to meet Kathy & Gregg at the nice restaurant (Mariner Harbor) near their new dock and had a great dinner. Polly had the special, lobster and clam bake but I went with Italian cuisine since the name of the family that owned the place was Guido – both dinners were excellent.
Another restful night thanks to the dual air conditioners aboard FLIGHT with plans for a very early departure to beat the heat – even though it meant we would miss the possibility of complimentary pastries and coffee that John might have been including with our stay package.

Wednesday, June 27, 2007

Ralph hangin' with the "good old boys" at Hideaway Marina.


June 25 – Monday
Now this is what Monday mornings are supposed to be. Polly and I dinked to the marina for ice and whatever else we might find. We found a great little breakfast spot where we enjoyed watching the commuters hurrying to catch the ferry to NYC as we ate and sipped our coffee.
We idled out of the harbor after saying good bye to the crew of DotCom who would be heading up the East River for Long Island Sound and on to their home in Rhode Island. When Renaissance caught up we headed under the Verrazano Narrows Bridge and into New York Harbor. We did manage to photograph one another with the Statue of Liberty in the background but it was dicey getting into position while dodging ferries, water taxis, tugs pushing fuel barges. I have never enjoyed driving or flying into NYC and now I can add sailing. I just don’t find much to enjoy about New York, the city.
After we got north of the GW bridge the ride and scenery improved and we had the Hudson to our selves. It was getting hotter as the day wore on so we planned to anchor near the Tappen Zee bridge but the wind made that spot pretty uncomfortable so we moved on to Haverstraw Bay about 6 NM north. Too tired for much dinner so grilled sandwiches did the job. The night was quiet and restful.
MAPS – see following links for access to maps related to the travels of FlightNorth
http://www.nyscanals.gov/maps/index.html
http://www.canadiancanalsociety.org/maps/map-overview-ont-que.html

LADY LIBERTY


Flight approaching Lady Liberty(photo by Renaissance)


June 24 – Sunday
Another stunning sunrise.
Some of the lighted buildings across the inlet at Atlantic City still had their light show running – blue to red to purple. We had the anchor up by 6:00 and were outbound in the inlet 10 minutes later. There was a nude woman bathing at the sandy beach near the inlet (I was told), but I (RCB) was too busy stowing the anchor gear to confirm.
Conditions were perfect for the trip to Sandy Hook Bay – comfortable seas and cool air temps made the long day very tolerable. The view was continuously scrolling from deserted beach to resort town to inlet to amusement park as we made our way north, 1 to 2 miles off shore. Fishing must have been good based on the number of private and head boats that were anchored and drifting around all day long. Dolphins must also have liked the fishing – we saw many and they seemed to be congregated in areas where many sea birds were located.
Finally, about 2PM a faint image began to appear that we soon IDed as the Manhattan skyline – very cool to see from the bridge of one’s own boat for the first time. The mood was soon broken by the 50,000 boats we began to encounter at the shoulder of Sandy Hook. These north Jersey boats all seemed to be “driven” by the same people you encounter on the roadways and bridges going into NYC on weekdays – on Sundays they drive their boats. On the water there are no lanes or signs so they are free to zoom in any direction and at any speed from stopped to full blast. On the water, horns and hand gestures seem to be replaced by foul language on the VHF radio. It appeared to me the marine police and CG up here, must only get involved if there is gunfire or a collision on weekends. Bold note in ship’s log “stay away from NYC / North Jersey on weekends”.
By 4:00 PM we were anchored behind the sea wall of the harbor at Atlantic Highlands, NJ along with the two boats we have been traveling with. Tomorrow Dot Com will break away for the trip home to Rhode Island – we will miss Maureen and Peter, they have become very good friends.

DotCom, soon to be renamed Duddon Pilot, weighing anchor for trip to Rock Hall.


Saturday, June 23, 2007

JUNE 23 – Saturday
Up early and away from the marina by 7:15. Close quarters and a bunch of sport fishing boats moving about the harbor called for careful maneuvering to and thru the Cape May inlet to the ocean. The sport fishing boats showed us their mega horsepower and 30 knot speed capability as they threw 5’-7’ wake at us but it’s important to get to the fish first, I guess.
Once clear of the jetty we pointed FLIGHT at 040 magnetic and pushed “AUTO” on the pilot control and settled in for the ride to Absecon Inlet and Atlantic City. Seas were running 3’ for a while but settled down to about 2’ for most of the trip. Polly brought coffee and cereal to the bridge and we checked in with DOT COM and RENAISSANCE as we had breakfast. We spotted another trawler (Namaste)chugging up the coast so we hailed them and learned they too are bound for the NY Canal system and have owned their boat for 15 years and have been living aboard for 6 (with 2 large dogs that have to go to the beach at least once a day). We hope to meet them again tomorrow evening when we will all be at Sandy Hook, NJ.
As we passed by Stone Harbor we called son Matt who is there with his in-laws for a few days and he went to the beach and phoned back that he was seeing our little flotilla of 3 boats as we talked on cell phones – hooray for Verizon and modern technology.
The weather is wonderful and visibility goes on forever and soon 2 “ships” appeared on the horizon. As any captain would, I made them a priority in my scan and soon they were accompanied by several more “ships” which eventually became hotel/casinos and the sky line of Atlantic City which we watched for another 2 hours at 8 kts.
We anchored at 12:30 in a pond-like piece of water just off the north side of Absecon Inlet. Another long time cruising friend named Ed Sved told us about this gem so we will call this Lake Sved. Thanks Ed.

Captains' planning meeting.


June 22 – Friday
A beautiful morning at 5:30 AM. When the light was good enough I (RCB) dug out the swim mask and some gloves and got some tools ready in case I found line wrapped on the shaft and over I went. Water was cool but pretty clear so it was easy to see all running gear was clean and undamaged – very good news and saved a $250. diver’s bill.The AM marine weather for off-shore was advertising slightly higher winds than last night but sea conditions about the same (3’-4’) nothing dangerous but iffy in the comfort department. The consensus among the 3 boats was to stay put and enjoy Cape May acting as vacationers instead of paid boat delivery crews, always pushing onward. So it’s kick back, bike around and maybe clean up the boat. Atlantic City can wait another day.
June 21 - Thursday
Anchor up and under way at 7:00 AM for Cape May, NJ. The current in the canal was against us for the first hour but when we reached the Delaware Bay end the current gave us a 2 knot push down the bay. The extra 2 kts. gave us a ground speed of 10+ for several hours and that is fast for a trawler that is happy with 8. About 2 hours into the bay transit we wrapped a crab pot float line around our prop but were lucky enough to back-spin it clear, I hope. There were no signs of vibrations so we continued on, planning to arrange for a haul-out inspection when we arrived. Generally we enjoyed the best of conditions for the passage on Delaware Bay which can be a very rough patch of water. We entered the Cape May Canal at 2:00 PM and were at Utschs Marina in the harbor by 3:00. To our disappointment there was a problem with their travel lift so no haul-out. Tomorrow AM the captain will don mask and snorkel to have a look. Our son Matt and his family happened to be in nearby Avalon for a few days with Kristin’s folks so they picked us up and swept us to their hotel for a quick visit over dinner. The center piece of the evening of course, was CAMERON. Tomorrow Atlantic City – we hope.

We passed this ship port to port in the C&D Canal.


Renaissance weighing anchor in Engineer's Cove.


June 20 - Wednesday
After a lay-over on Tuesday the 19th for resupply, we all departed on the 20th (north bound) to anchor in Engineer’s Cove off the C&D Canal at Chesapeake City, MD. Due to weather we delayed departure until 1:30 PM and fighting a head wind and choppy seas made our way to the anchorage by 7:00 PM. All crews were tired and stayed aboard their respective boats for a light meal – egg, ham & cheese sandwiches aboard FLIGHT. Cool and pleasant WX, great for sleeping.
We departed TYA early Sunday AM June 17 with 2 different boats traveling north with us. This time it was Maureen and Peter Mezei aboard Dot Com and Kathy and Gregg Dohrer (full time live aboards) aboard Renaissance. The Mezei’s had just taken delivery of their boat in Portsmouth and are taking her home to Rhode Island and Kathy and Gregg had also planned to do the loop cruise through the canals so the three of us trekked north together arriving at our home marina in Rock Hall after 2 long days on the water.

Tall ship on THE BAY.


6/8/07 The Southern Leg
Oddly, the first leg of the Flight North was actually a cruise south to Portsmouth Virginia to attend a Monk owner’s rendezvous. We left Rock Hall with two other boats owned by friends, Sea Lebrity II with Marilyn & John O’Bryan aboard and Elysium with Jane and Bob Scarborough. We cruised our way down the Bay making several stops to enjoy the weather, food and shore side sites at Solomons Island (MD) and the Piankatank River (VA) before arriving at Tidewater Yacht Agency in Portsmouth. We arrived in the afternoon of Wednesday June 13. These arrivals are always fun with friends and fellow owners waiting on the dock to help with line handling and a bit of advice on docking.
These events provide plenty of opportunity to socialize but also are great learning opportunities. There were meetings and seminars on cruising the Bahamas, the New York and Canadian canal systems, boat maintenance and safety as well as ways to have cell phone and Email service on board your boat. Most of us attended the seminars while some stayed aboard their boats to attend to some cleaning and maintenance chores.

Captain tending to his boat.


Chestertown's replica of the John Smith Shallop at a stop over in Solomons.


Tuesday, June 19, 2007

FLIGHT NORTH
Flight North must begin with our boat - she is a 2006 Monk 36 trawler yacht that is named FLIGHT because the name represents our flight (fleeing) from sailing and the Island Packet 38 sail boat we cruised the Chesapeake Bay on for 10 years. While sailing is a beautiful and wonderful way to travel on water, winds can be fickle and many times, not available. We came to realize our interest was in destinations and found ourselves motoring much of the time. This led us to the decision to look for a different style boat and a slow moving (6-8 knots) fuel efficient trawler fit the bill. In making the change we also decided we would give comfort and convenience a high place on the specification sheet.
FLIGHT is self contained with H&C water, two cabins each with toilet, a shower stall, refrigerator, air conditioning and heating system, propane cooking and a generator to provide AC power to run it all when we are on the water.
She is also well equipped with the latest GPS navigation electronics and VHF radios. Oh, and a T-V, stereo system and iPod. We like her a lot.
The voyage we are calling FLIGHT NORTH was conceived in the fall of 2006 as the boating season came to an end. For a long time we have discussed an extended period aboard our boat such as a winter trip to Florida or the Keys but then it occurred to us that it would be nice to spend summer in a cooler climate. Many cruisers take their boats to Maine in the summer and that had some appeal but we learned about a water route that is known as the “Little Loop” and encompasses parts of New York and Vermont as well as the Canadian provinces of Ontario and Quebec.The route will take us from our home port of Rock Hall on Maryland’s Eastern Shore thru the C&D Canal to Delaware Bay and on to Cape May, NJ. We then plan to transit the New Jersey coast north to New York City and the Hudson River. Just above Albany at Troy is the entrance to the Erie Canal which will take us west to the junction of the Oswego River / canal and to the town of Oswego on the shore of Lake Ontario. We then will go northward crossing L. Ontario to Kingston and the entrance to the historic Rideau Waterway, a system of canals and locks that connect a chain of lakes and ultimately ENE to Ottawa, the capitol city of Canada on the shore of the Ottawa River. That river flows to Montreal where it joins the St. Lawrence River and Seaway. East on the St. Lawrence about 50 miles is the town of Sorel and there we will enter the Richelieu river and canal to the north end of Lake Champlain. After transiting the lake to the southern end we will enter the Champlain canal which will carry us back to the Hudson at the point we entered the Erie. All total we expect the FLIGHT NORTH to be about 1400 NM and roughly 2 months to complete.